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A tribute to Grand Mère
By Chef Patron - Philippe Wagenfuhrer
Many people have asked me who inspired me to become a chef - and I can answer without a moment's hesitation that it was my grandmother - or "Grand Mère" as I called her. She played a huge role in my life. She was my idol, my role model, my very first mentor, as she would correct me by saying "cook", not a chef )as chefs are not always good cooks in her books).
Originally from Alsace, I grew up in West Africa and most of my holidays were spent in France with my family - away from my mother. I had seven siblings, so our holidays were a perfect opportunity for her to seize some quiet time and tranquil headspace by shipping all seven of us off to family.
I have rich and colourful memories of so many food dishes as a child. My Grand Mère always cooked on Sundays and the ritual started around 6am when she collected fat milk from our next door neighbour, Mr Muller's farm, and churned it into butter.
After that, she would bake sourdough bread, which we know as "miche de pain". It took hours to make! When the oven doors opened and the bread was placed on the table, we used to say, "the symphony of smell has begun". At around 10am I had the privilege of tasting the very first slice covered with freshly made butter and topped with cracked salt. The memory of eating that bread brings tears to my eyes.
Because I was so short, standing on top of an empty apple crate was the only way I could see and be able to admire all of my grandmother's talents, especially when she would, with the help of a cleaver, chop the head off of a recently caught rabbit. After she removed the offal she would pan-fry them in her freshly made butter.
The loins were pan-fried until pink, the legs stewed in a rich jus with handfuls of smoked streaky bacon, glazed baby onions, a reduction of good quality Bordeaux wine and some home made noodles with braised French lettuce.
All of this constituted our mid-morning feast - thick slices of bread, butter so rich and delicious, offal, cooked and seasoned to perfection and an aperitif of white wine such as Gewürtztraminer.
The rabbit ritual began. I would watch keenly - again with my eyes just making it over the edge of the table - while this giant of a cook prepared the rabbit dish. I've never quite been able to decide if I fell in love with the ritual or the tasty aftermath of the ritual... but I think it is probably a combination of both that made this particular dish a childhood favourite.
I have treasured these recipes all my life and in fact, the day my Grand Mère passed away she made me promise that I would serve this dish in my first restaurant as the "plat de maison", the dish of the house - and I did.
There is immeasurable value in that which cannot be tagged with a price.
To my Grand Mère - I salute you!
Wine Tasting with Gourmet Dinner: Stellekaya Estate
Wednesday, 4 April 2007
Time: 19h00
Dinner: R 250pp (including wines)
Stellekaya is a privately owned boutique wine producer situated in the heart of the Cape Winelands.
Producing wines from noble red varietals, they are proud to produce a collection of red wines that typify the Stellenbosch terroir and also meet international super-premium quality standards.
French Gastronomic Dinner: Loire
Wednesday, 18 April 2007
Time: 19h00
Dinner: R 220pp + R 120 (wine option)
Celebrate the fine cuisine typically enjoyed in the Loire region where meals are festive occasions prepared with passion. These "gargantuan" meals include delicacies from fish of the Loire or local game, asparagus or green lentils from Berry. Don't forget their famous goat's cheeses and finish this mouth watering experience with the renowned Loire Tarte Tatin.
Also Remember:
Saturday brunch
After a well deserved sleep-in on a Saturday morning you can treat yourself to a laidback 5 course brunch and a glass of sparkling wine, served from 10:00 - 14:30 every Saturday. Cost R150.00 per person.
Sunday Jazz Lunch
Enjoy live Jazz music with a gastronomic 6 course Sunday lunch, served from 12:00pm - 16:00pm. Cost R245.00 per person.
Reserve now to avoid disappointment. Also open for breakfast, lunch & dinner
Please note children over 12 are welcome at full price.
May at a glance
Wine Tasting with gourmet dinner: Ernst & Co Estate Wednesday 2 May 2007Mothers Day: Mother & Daughter Day Out Saturday 12 May 2007
French Gastronomic dinner: Provence Wednesday: 16 May 2007
For more information on roots or Forum Homini please visit our website on www.forumhomini.co.za or contact us on 011 668 7000 .
I hope you enjoyed reading our newsletter and I look forward to sending similar correspondence out to you on a regular basis.
Warm regards,
Juanita Marais
MARKETING & PR MANAGER
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